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Friday, June 16, 2006

ahead of the pack

I'm a day ahead of the Associated Press!

One (okay, a few) more caveats:

Sunscreen (or sunblock) degrades. The FDA requires that it maintain a shelf life of 3 years, but most doctors say to replace it every year.

"Two tablespoons" is the same size as a shot glass. You need about 2/5 of a teaspoon for your face.

Chemical sunscreens (sunscreens where the main active ingredients are chemical absorbers like octinoxate or Parsol 1789) need to be applied 15-30 minutes before exposure in order for the chemicals to react with the skin. Physical blocker sunblocks (main active ingredients are zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide) can be applied just before going in the sun.

Chemical sunscreens tend to be more irritating. Also, the chemicals are often oils. Since physical "blockers" are inert molecules that just sit on the skin, they are more suitable for oily or senstive skins. Keep in mind that products with a high percentage of "blockers" like zinc or titanium dioxide do not photograph well. Since they work by "reflecting" rays of light, they often reflect the light from flashbulbs, giving the wearer a whitish cast.

Most UVA absorbers (meradimate, Parsol 1789) are not photostable. That is, they degrade under light. Octocrylene (UVA and UVB absorber) has a stabilizing effect on Parsol 1789). Mexoryl and Tinosorb are photostable, and in addition, they can also stabilize other ingredients. Titanium and zinc oxide, which block both UVA and UVB light, are photostable. However, many formulas nowadays are getting more micronized in order to avoid that whitish cast. The downside is that they provide less UVA protection. If you're picking a sunscreen from the US market, make sure it has Parsol 1789 with octocrylene, or non-micronized titanium or zinc oxide.

Moisturizer goes on before sunscreen, then makeup. It's a good idea to wait for a few minutes (ideally ten) between application of products in order to let them absorb.

Finally, skin damage due to sun exposure is cumulative. That is, it's not just because you used to sunbathe unprotected in Maui for eight hours at a time and would get a killer sunburn. Walking outside for a few minutes here or there to go to class, work, the supermarket, etc. - all of THAT unprotected sun exposure is cumulative, too. Yeah, I know. After I learned that, I started getting extra vigilant about sunscreen. Quadrupuling my paranoia is the fact that I spent my childhood and teenage years surfing, swimming and sunbathing unprotected through all the seasons of the year.

Product reviews will follow shortly.

1 Comments:

At 12:57 PM, Blogger anne said...

one other thing... sunscreens expire, which a lot of people don't realize, since there's never ever any date printed on those things! i've heard a dermatologist say you should throw them out after 6 months and replace them. (sorry if this is repeating something you already said!)

 

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